King's Links, Aberdeen, Scotland

http://www.sportaberdeen.co.uk/venues/kings-links-golf-course/

White tees par 71, SSS 69, 6292 yards
Red tee par 68, SSS 70, 5218 yards








The first hole is overlooked by Pittodrie stadium,
the home of Aberdeen Football Club

King's Links lies within the city of Aberdeen on the land between the town and the beach.  It is thought that golf was first played in this area south of the current course in 1625.  The Aberdeen Golf Club was responsible for laying out a course on this land in 1780, the first recorded instance of a golf course being laid out.  In 1872 the course was extended to form 14 holes, incorporating some of the current site. One hole was added in 1873 and in 1876 three more were added to make an 18 hole course.  It is now a public course run by the local authority.

King's Links looks like a true links course but doesn't play like one.  The fairways are soft with frequent patches of casual water despite a dry autumn, possibly because part of the course lies below sea level and is prone to flooding.  The greens were slow and holding with few contours.  Despite a friendly welcome we were disappointed by the quality of the course which was very worn in places. 



Crows bathing in the casual water on the 8th fairway

We played on a pleasant but windy Saturday when the course was very busy.  There weren't many memorable holes although the 10th is a lovely par 3 to a plateau green.  There were no sea views despite its proximity because a road on a raised causeway lies between the course and the sea.  The finish was weak with two par threes and a short par 4.

Worth playing?  No - not really a true links experience.

 

Balnagask, Aberdeen, Scotland

http://www.sportaberdeen.co.uk/venues/balnagask-golf-course/

White tees par 70, SSS 69, 6059 yards
Red tees par 72, SSS 72, 5575 yards


Balnagask is a public course in the city of Aberdeen in north-east Scotland.  It lies on the Balnagask headland between the estuary of the River Dee and Nigg Bay with stunning views over Aberdeen harbour and the historic Girdle Ness lighthouse.  The golf course was first opened in 1905 having been designed by Archie Simpson who also designed the more famous Murcar Links and Nairn (see 31st May 2013) amongst others.  It was then modified in 1920 by James Braid and finally in 1976 by the Hawtree Company responsible for the design of the nearby Trump International Golf Links. 



The 3rd green with the entrance to
Aberdeen harbour in the background

We played Balnagask on a windy day with a coastal haar which restricted some of the lovely views but the condition and quality of the course exceeded our expectations of a public course.  It was well maintained with typical links greens and fairways.  It lies on very undulating ground which means that there were a lot of blind shots and since the course was very quiet we lost our way on a number of occasions.

The 17th green overlooks Aberdeen harbour. 
The spires of the city can just be seen in the mist 

The first nine runs along the Dee estuary and the sea and overlooks the entrance to Aberdeen harbour.  There are a number of challenging par fours, many of which play into the prevailing westerly wind.  Two of them plus the 10th are par fives for ladies. There is only one par three in the first nine, the aptly named Spion Kop, which is played to a high plateau green.  On the tenth tee the views of the lighthouse, Aberdeen's beach and the harbour are quite distracting especially on a windy day when the waves crash into the rocks.  The 10th itself is a lovely undulating par five with a green set in a narrow valley but in general the second nine is less memorable.  The round finishes with a long downhill left to right par three with a green which is difficult to hold.  This course is remarkable value for money - it was £8 each for the round which included a discount for the weather!

Worth playing? Yes.  Good value but hilly and probably too many blind shots.

Strathtyrum, St Andrews, Scotland

http://www.standrews.com/Play/Courses/Strathtyrum-Course

White tees par 69, SSS 66, 5620 yards
Red tees par 68, SSS 67, 4705 yards

Strathtyrum is one of five true links courses at the golfing mecca which is St Andrews. Designed by Donald Steel, it was opened in 1993 when a local farmer who had won the honour in a newspaper competition struck the first drive as fighter jets from RAF Leuchars flew over the first tee.  It was named for the neighbouring estate from whom the St Andrews Links Trust bought the land.

The 2nd and 5th share a double green.
The backdrop is the town of St Andrews

Strathtyrum is a much less testing course than its bigger neighbours and was built to relieve some of the congestion on the other courses and to present a much less stern challenge for the holiday golfer. It lies inland from the Eden course so there are only occasional glimpses of the estuary. We played it with Lynn and David Lawson on a cool and dreich Scottish day with only a light wind. 

The par 3 third with a typically contoured green

It is short and flat and although pleasant to play the holes are not particularly memorable.  The greens have a hint of the normal Donald Steel upturned saucers and are well contoured but easier to hold than on most of his courses.  The course was in excellent condition as one would expect in St Andrews.

Worth playing?  If you want to play in St Andrews but don't want the challenge of the bigger courses.  A good starter for beginners or children.



Bundoran, Eire

www.bundorangolfclub.com

Blue tees par 70, SSS 70, 5729 yards
Red tees par 73, SSS 73, 5116 yards

Bundoran is a seaside town in Co Donegal in Eire which became popular when railways were built in the late 19th century to bring people from the towns to the seaside.  A large hotel, the Great Northern Hotel, which remains today was built in 1894 and a 9 hole golf course constructed in the land around it.  It was initially designed by a Scot, GL Baillie, and then extended to 18 holes in 1904.  Harry Vardon, the legendary golfer who won the Open six times, redesigned the course in 1927.  Another famous name linked with the course is that of Christy O'Connor who was the professional from 1951 to 1957.

The 5th green

Despite this illustrious history and despite the warm welcome we have come to expect in Ireland this course was a disappointment for our last of this Irish trip.  Bundoran is not quite a true links as it lies partly on a clifftop and the fairways do not run fast and hard.  The first nine especially had a number of weak holes such as the par 4 4th and 5th and the ninth which runs steeply downhill to the rather unattractive rear of the hotel.  The second nine was a little more 'linksy' especially on the 11th which runs along Donegal Bay and from which we could see the perfect place to build a links course amongst lovely unspoilt dunes!  The course was worn and appears to have been overplayed perhaps because it is so reasonably priced.

The view from the 11th green over Donegal Bay

Worth playing?  Not if you are expecting a links course of the quality to be found around this area.

Strandhill,Eire

 www.strandhillgolfclub.com

White tees par 70 SSS 70
Red tees par 72 SSS 72

A chilly morning!

From the moment of arrival at the clubhouse Strandhill golf course is spread out in front of the observer and it is clear that this is a proper links course.  Views of the sea, dunes and typical crumpled fairways stretch across the landscape.

The view towards Knocknarea from the 5th tee

Strandhill lies on a promontory which juts out into Ballisodare Bay on the west coast of Eire just north of the town of Sligo.  It has two aspects overlooking the sea at Cullinmore bay and Strandhill Beach.  It is overlooked by Knocknarea, a large limestone hill topped by a cairn which is thought to date from 3000BC and is reputed to contain the grave of the mythical Queen Maeve.  A huge sand dune dominates the view to the west. Strandhill was opened in 1931 as a 9 hole course designed and laid out by the members using a horse and plough and the natural contours of the linksland.  It was redesigned in 1939 by John McAlister, still as a 9 hole course.  It wasn't until 1973 that the course was extended to 18 holes and it was subsequently redesigned, again with the input of some members.

The 7th hole from the green. 
The tee is half way up the dune in the distance

The first hole lies on the side of a hill making it difficult to hold the fairway from a drive and the sloping green from the second shot.  The next three holes. a par 3 and two short but testing par 4s, run alongside the beautiful Cullinmore Strand,  The fifth is a par 5 whose fairway is the epitome of a links course with wonderful humps and bumps leading to a sunken green.  The 6th hole crosses over to Strandhill beach which lies along the left of the par 4 7th with its tee set into the large dune giving a panoramic view of the famous surfers' beach.  After four less dramatic holes the course then turns into the dunes and some fun and quirky holes.  At the 13th local knowledge must be useful to aid in deciding how much of the dune to cut off with the drive and how to negotiate the very narrow entrance to the green.  The 14th is a lovely par 3 which requires a very accurate shot to the green and the uphill doglegging 15th with its fairway at right angles to the drive and plateau green will test the best.  Some relief is offered by the gently curving downhill 16th and the par 3 17th until the sting in the tail - the difficult uphill, right doglegging 18th with thick rough and dunes on the left, out of bounds on the right and a tricky sloping elevated green.

The narrow entrance to the 13th

Worth playing?  Definitely - a lovely course overshadowed by its bigger near neighbours.

Scurmore, Enniscrone, Eire

www.enniscronegolf.com/

White tees par 72 SSS 72
Red tees par 72 SSS 70




The view from the 6th tee

Scurmore is the nine hole course alongside the Dunes course at Enniscrone which was designed by a combination of Eddie Hackett and Donald Steel.  It is a bit of an anti-climax after playing the Dunes course as it lies mainly along the flat ground inland and lacks sea views.  The first few holes are fairly featureless barring a few water hazards with the best saved for last.  The 6th tee is elevated and requires a drive over daunting rough.  The 7th is an uphill par 3 with trouble on the left (thick rough) and the right (a deep grassy hollow) for the errant drive.  The 8th descends to the flatter land with a drive over shaggy dunes onto a fairway at right angles to the line.  Unfortunately the ladies' tee is completely blind to the fairway as it is set too low amongst the dunes making it a bit if a 'hit and hope'.  The greens were hard and fast but the fairways were lusher than expected for a links course.



The 7th hole climbs into the dunes.  The flag can just be seen on the horizon

Worth playing?  Only as a bit of light relief after playing the big course,

Enniscrone Dunes, Eire

www.enniscronegolf.com

White tees par 73 SSS 73
Red tees par 73 SSS 73



Golf started in Enniscrone at the end of the first World War but the first written record was in 1922 when the local newspaper announced that medal competitions were being played at Enniscrone Golf Links but it was not until 1930 that nine holes were laid out and the course was formally opened a year later when the annual membership fee was £1.  During and after the second World War the
fortunes of the club foundered and it wasn't until the late 1950s that the club revived because of an influx of labour into the area.  In 1974 a new 18 hole course designed by Eddie Hackett, the great Irish golf course designer, was opened.  Donald Steel was commissioned in 1999 and added six new holes in the dunes to the main course and three more on the flat land to make the smaller Scurmore course and these were opened in 2001.



The second shot at the 1st hole enters the dunes

Enniscrone Dunes can be summed up as towering dunes, tight lines, difficult greens and a number of blind shots.  This is definitely a course which rewards the straight hitter as even a shot slightly off line will be punished with heavy rough at most of the holes.  We were lucky to play it on a day with little wind - add strong winds and it must be almost impossible.

The tenth hole is in the flat section of the course

After the first drive along flat land the hole doglegs into the dunes with the green, like many, cut into the slopes.  The next three holes wind between the dunes and are picturesque but tricky.  The course then opens out onto flatter land which is the weakest part of the course but has some Eddie Hackett holes with interesting green complexes.  The ninth and tenth run along Scurmore beach and then the next ascent into the dunes begins.  The next stretch is particularly attractive starting with a lovely par 3 with a two tier green.  The 13th is a short par 4 with a blind shot from the tee with an unusual traffic light system which lets the golfer know when to play. 

The fourteenth hole from behind the green
The Knoc na gCorp dune can be seen in the background

The 14th ('Valley of Diamonds') is a tough par 5 with a double dogleg up to a green nestled in the dunes.  It is dominated by the Knoc na gCorp (or Hill of the Dead) dune on the left which legends says was formed by the locals piling up bodies of defeated Viking raiders!  The next three holes follow the Atlantic Ocean with the 15th a difficult par 4 with the green cut into the side of the dunes - anything short or right ends up in a deep swale.  The 17th is a delightful par 3 only marred by an ugly caravan park behind the green.


The view from behind the 16th green, a most attractive par 5

Worth playing?  Yes for the beauty of the dunes but only if you don't mind blind shots and tight lines.

Bomore, County Sligo, Eire

www.countysligogolfclub.ie

White tees par 70 SSS 69
Red tees par 70 SSS 70






Bomore is the 'little brother' of the Championship course at County Sligo.  It is a nine hole course deigned by Jonathan Tucker which was opened in 1999.  Its character is quite different from the Championship course and reminded us of Strathtyrum in St Andrews.  It is flatter than its bigger brother with more gorse and a number of holes with strategically placed water hazards but no sea views.  The round started well with a sighting of a peregrine falcon being mobbed by a crow at the first tee.  The greens were excellent and the fairways similar to those on the Championship course, a bit softer than usual for a links course.  The par 5 5th, said by some to be the best par 5 in the 27 holes at County Sligo is the most memorable on the Bomore, a gentle dogleg from right to left with water on the left and also across the fairway short of the green.

Worth a visit?  Yes.  A relaxing round after the tough challenge of the morning!

Bomore with Ben Ghulbain, Ireland's 'Table Mountain' in the background

Championship Course, The County Sligo Golf Club at Rosses Point, Eire

www.countysligogolfclub.ie

White tees par 71 SSS 71
Red tees par 74 SSS 74







Looking down the 12th hole

This is a beautiful scenic area of Eire and when a championship golf course is added to the equation it becomes close to paradise.  County Sligo is situated on the west coast of Eire on a promontory called Rosses Point which guards the entrance to Sligo Harbour on its northerly side.  Overlooking Drumcliff Bay on the west and overlooked from the north-east by Ben Ghulbain (Benbulben), the 'table mountain' of Ireland, its situation is stunning.  We played on a calm sunny September day with our son William who joined us from London.  The welcome we had at this club was exceptional and easily the friendliest we have experienced.



The view from the 13th tee

County Sligo started in 1894 as a nine hole course designed by George Combe and was extended by Willie Campbell at the turn of the century to an 18 hole course.  Remodelled by Harry Colt in 1927 to its current layout it is a great test of golf with its undulations, height changes, plateau greens, swales, burns, punishing rough and challenging bunkers. The greens were fast and true but the fairways were a little lusher than normal for a links course because of a rather wet summer.  The third is a lovely downhill par 5 with fantastic views from the tee.  The par three 4th is reminiscent of the Redan at North Berwick with its plateau green sloping from right to left and front to back.  The second nine is particularly good with a string of good holes with superb views of the bay and beaches such as the lovely undulating downhill par 5 12th and the tricky par 3 13th with a green sloping from front to back and water lying in wait for the unwary.  The 17th is a tough par 4 for men and 5 for ladies with a dogleg from right to left to an elevated green.  According to one of the members who we met in the bar after our round the Championship course is three sixes rather than two nines - the first six are easy, the second six change direction, causing trouble with the wind and the third six are a b*****d!




The 17th with its elevated green

Worth a visit?  This course is a joy and with the scenery and warm welcome is not to be missed.



Monifieth Golf Links (Medal), Scotland

www.monifiethgolf.co.uk

White tees  par SSS 72
Red tees    par 73 SSS 7

Monifieth golf links has been in existence officially since 1845 when it was laid out as a nine hole course and played by Panmure Golf Club which later moved to their own course which is also a true links course.  However a summons was issued in Monifieth to Robert Morome in 1639 for playing golf on a Sunday although it is not known where he played.  Between 1845 and 1871 the 9 holes were reduced to 6 increased to 10 and reduced again to 9.  Finally in 1880 the course was extended to 18 holes then lengthened and remodelled in 1898.  Despite changes over the next century the first nine are substantially the same as in 1898.

A sliced shot may encounter a train on the first few holes

We played Monifieth medal course on a sunny but breezy September day in their open mixed greensomes with Marie Vanderpeear and Ian Kerr who coincidentally are members at my home course, Murrayfield.  The course reminded us of Buddon Links(10th August 2014)) and Burnside (23rd May 2015) at Carnoustie - an unpretentious course but a good test of golf.

The first six holes run with the prevailing wind parallel to the Firth of Tay although there are no views of the water from the course as the main Aberdeen to Edinburgh railway line lies between the two.  The first four holes are par 4s for men with two of them being par 5s for ladies and have undulating fairways through shallow dunes.  The fourth is particularly memorable as its long narrow green is guarded by tall dunes on either side and requires an accurate shot into the tight entrance to the green.  The par threes (5th, 11th and 14th) are testing with well bunkered green complexes.  The 8th is a short par 4, driveable by long hitters and a definite birdie chance.  The second nine meanders to and fro until the 16th when you turn for home with three challenging holes.  The outstanding feature of the Medal course is the quality of the greens - hard, fast and perfectly true.

A view from the fairway to the 13th green

Worth playing?  Yes.  It is a fair and challenging test for the club golfer.

Royal Troon Old Course, Scotland

www.royaltroon.co.uk

White tees par 71 SSS 73
Red tees par 75 SSS 76

Located on the south west coast of Scotland, Royal Troon golf club was established in 1878 although golf had been played there for several years before that. The following year a six hole course,designed by Charles Walker, the professional at the time whose title was 'Custodian of the Links' was opened.  The course was extended to 18 holes in 1888 and in its time has had input from Willie Fernie (the 1883 Open champion), Alistair MacKenzie, James Braid and Frank Pennink.  The motto of the club is 'Tam Arte Quam Marte' which translates as 'As much by skill as strength' which is a perfect description of this challenging true links course.



The 8th green - the Postage Stamp - from the tee

Royal Troon has hosted the Open Championship on eight occasions and is due to do so again in 2016 so it was a must for us to play before then.  We were invited to play by our friends Frank and Helen Dunn on a benign day by links standards - mild with light winds.  The prevailing wind blows across most of the holes which are in a traditional nine out-nine back layout.  The first six holes run southwards along the Firth of Clyde with views of Arran, Kintyre and Ailsa Craig.  It is a relatively gentle start provided you avoid the deep bunkers.  The 6th is a lovely par 5 running along a valley between the dunes with an elevated green.  The sea can be heard at all these holes and seen at some.

Troon's most famous hole is the par 3 8th, named 'The Postage Stamp' for the size of its green!  It is guarded by five bunkers, one of which is aptly named the coffin.  The green is narrow from left to right making it difficult to hold a shot from any bunker.  Gene Sarazen, who was the 1923 Open champion at Troon, had a hole in one here on his first round in the 1973 Open, fifty years later, and holed out from a bunker for a two in the second round. 

The punishing Coffin bunker at the 8th

The 11th is a difficult hole lined by gorse with the railway line on the right which comes nearer and nearer as the green approaches.  The last five holes run in a northerly direction back to the clubhouse.  The 17th is a difficult par 3 (210 yards from the white and 166 yards from the red tees) guarded by five bunkers.  The 18th is a good par 4 where the championship tee is 90 yards behind the white tees.  The second shot to the green requires careful calculation of the length as a slightly too exuberant shot will finish out of bounds on the gravel path in front of the clubhouse.

The 18th green lies in front of the clubhouse

Worth playing?  Not to be missed.  A true links course which will test any golfer.



Winterfield, Dunbar, Scotland

www.winterfieldgolfclub.info

White tees SSS 65
Red tees SSS 68

This course is not quite a links course but not quite a parkland course either.  The greens are hard and fast running like a links course but many of the fairways are quite lush.  The course does not appear to be built on sandy soil and parts of it are along a cliff top.  However the setting is superb with views of the Forth, the Bass Rock and North Berwick Law from most of the course.  Designed by James Braid it was opened in 1935 but after being requisitioned during World War 2 it was reopened with a number of changes to the first layout.



The peninsula green at the 14th. 

The 17th green with North Berwick Law in the background

We played the course on a sunny but windy Scottish summer's day.  It is short with very little trouble apart from the bunkers.  The first hole is bizarre - a  238 yard par three for men and a 220 yard par 4 for ladies which plays across a deep valley rising via a steep rough covered face to the green.  Most amateurs of both genders will have a blind second shot from the depths of the valley.  The first nine is rather boring although the 7th is a long par 4/5 with a challenging sloping green.  The second nine is more interesting with the par three 14th being the most memorable.  Named 'The Point' it has a peninsula green with water along the left side.  The green slopes towards the water and is guarded by a large bunker to the front right. The 18th is a pretty short par 4 with views beyond the green to the Bass Rock.

Worth playing?  I wouldn't recommend it over any of the other courses in the area




The 18th green.  The Bass Rock can be seen on the horizon.



Waterville, County Kerry, Eire

www.watervillegolflinks.ie

                          

White tees par 72
Red tees    par 73

This is a wonderful golf course and takes a place in our top three.  It is rare to encounter a course in such a beautiful setting which is of the highest calibre without any weak holes. Lying on a promontory between the estuary of the Inny river and the North Atlantic on the west coast of Eire it has views to the intriguingly named Macgillicuddy's Reeks mountain range which has the highest peaks in Ireland.  We had a very friendly welcome in the club which is popular with Americans.  Payne Stewart accepted honorary captaincy before his premature death and is commemorated by a brass statue in front of the clubhouse.



Waterville is a haven for hares. 
This is reflected in the use of a hare on the club badge
and the tee markers

Golf was brought to Waterville by the workers on the first transatlantic cable which was laid between nearby Valentia island and Newfoundland in the middle of the 19th century.  In 1889 the first formal golf course was laid out with nine holes.  The club failed in the 1950s but was resuscitated by Jack Mulcahy, an Irish American who bought the course in the 1960s and commissioned Claude Harmon and Eddie Hackett (see Connemara) to build an eighteen hole course which opened in 1973.  The original nine holes make up the current first nine which run beside the estuary.  The second nine run closer to the Atlantic with the last few running along the beach. 


Christy's choice - the second hole

The Mass Hole

The first hole is probably the easiest on the course and appropriately named Last Easy!  The second is pleasing to the golfer's eye and is a left to right tilting par 4 with a green framed by the estuary.  It was chosen by Christy O'Connor senior as one of the 18 best golf holes in Ireland.  The par 3s at this course are remarkable for their quality and crowned by the 17th which is played from a tee 250 feet above sea level.  If you can drag your eyes away from the magnificent views you will see the green across a sea of dunes described 'as an emerald oasis amidst a jungle of nature's own terrain'.  The par 3 12th is 'The Mass Hole' named for the use of its deep valley to celebrate Mass in times of persecution in the 18th century.  The finishing hole maintains the standard of the rest of the course as a classic tough par 5 with a narrow fairway and a green angled to the left.

Worth a visit? Unquestionably

The magnificent views from the 17th hole

Connemara , Eire

http://connemaragolflinks.com/

White tees par 72 SSS 73
Red tees    par 72 SSS 72

Connemara is on the west coast of Eire in an isolated but beautiful spot between the Twelve Pins (or Twelve Bens) mountain range and the Atlantic Ocean.  Although founded as recently as 1973 it feels as if it has always been there.  It was designed by Eddie Hackett who is renowned for designing golf courses with minimum disruption to the natural landscape and who designed almost a third of the links courses in Ireland. 

The first hole is a dogleg from right to left.
 The green is framed by the Twelve Pins mountain range

We played Connemara on a day of light breezes and hazy sunshine in late June when the wildflowers were carpeting the rough.  The first nine holes follow the natural contours of the machair and lull the unwary into a false sense of security.  The second nine are much tougher, with the real sting in the tail starting at the par 3 13th with a chasm between the tee and green.  Four of the last five holes have steep plateau greens and three of them are par fives. Water comes into play at the front of the 16th green and across the 18th fairway.   As you leave the eighteenth green you know that your golf has been tested. 

Worth a visit?  It is a testing course in a beautiful part of the world but it is remote.