Highland Links, Truro, Massachusetts, USA

 https://www.highlandlinkscapecod.com/

Men's blue/white par 70, slope 114, 5349 yds                            

Ladies red/gold par 72, slope 117, 4587 yds

Our last true links course in the United States is the nine hole Highland Links which lies on the narrow strip of the northerly peninsula of Cape Cod overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  It was constructed in 1892 as part of a resort operated by a local family, initially with sand greens.  When the greens were converted to grass Francis Ouimet, the 1913 US Open champion, played an exhibition match here.  The course was redesigned in 1913 and refurbished in 1955.  It has been owned by the Cape Cod National Seashore since the 1960s.

Looking back down
the second hole

The Highland Light dominates
the fourth green

We played Highland Links with Marc and Beth Swiontkowski on a sunny day with a light breeze.   We were disappointed by the condition of the course - the fairways were soft and hairy, the greens were bumpy and slow and the course was generally in poor condition..  It did not resemble a true links course which should have hard and fast running fairways and greens.  The first hole is nondescript.  The second is a dogleg to the left with a steep downhill drive and then runs uphill to a flat green.  The third and fourth also have significant elevation changes with the fourth green dominated by the picturesqueHighland Light, which dates to 1797 and is the logo of the course.  The next two holes have lovely views of the ocean from a clifftop situation.  The last two holes are lower lying with the 8th in particular being more parkland in nature. 

The ninth is a par 3

Worth playing?  Perhaps for its history as the oldest links course in the USA but not for its condition.

Granville Links Golf Club, Granville, France

 https://www.golfdegranville.com

White tees: 5984m, par 72, slope 136                        

Red tees: 4793m, par 72, slope 126

On a warm sunny day with a light breeze we found our way to the only true links course in France.  Granville is just north of the town of Granville in the small village of Breville-sur-Mer on the Normandy coast with views to the Channel Islands on a clear day.  Golf was first proposed on the land in 1912 and a course opened in 1914 but was almost immediately taken over by the military as a training ground for the First World War.  It wasn't until 1921 that work started on a definitive design by Harry Colt who designed many notable courses including Muirfield.

The fifth green with the elevated
6th tee behind

The course is set on true links land between the village and the sea although there are limited views of the sea but this is mitigated by the beauty of the wildflowers and the butterflies which abound. Unfortunately the course was rather worn and is obviously heavily played but it has the typical crumpled fairways and sloping greens of a links course. The quality of the greens was disappointing and they were rather slow for a links course. There was an unusual distribution of holes with only one par 3 on the first nine and the lower handicap indices mainly on the back nine. 

The bunkers have revetted faces

The first and the ninth are par fives in opposite directions. The second is a tricky par 3 which is blind to the base of the pin with a sloping green and all the others on the first nine are reasonably short par 4s.  The only proper sea views are from the elevated mens' tee at the sixth hole - it is worth the climb!  The second nine starts with a weak par 3 which has a plateau green with ravines rather than swales around the whole circumference which we felt was more like crazy golf.  The 11th is a lovely par 5 called 'the crater' for the shape of the fairway which leads to an long and narrow elevated green guarded by three bunkers.  A flat par three and a par 4 follow and then the 14th and the 15th are across a road and more parkland than links in nature. Back across the road the sixteenth is another par 3 with more huge runoffs but at least, unlike the 10th, it had a backstop.  The course finishes with two attractive par 4s.

The elevated green of the 16th hole

The 18th hole with the clubhouse behind

Worth playing?  Yes, especially as it is the only true links in France but it is a pity it is not in better condition.

Dundonald Links, Irvine, Scotland

https://dundonaldlinks.com/

Men's medal tees 6725 yds, par 72, slope 138        

Front tees 5560 yds, par 72, slope 131

Dundonald Links lies on the Firth of Clyde on the south west coast of Scotland but is separated from the sea views by another true links course, Western Gailes.  It is part of the Ayrshire golf coast with, amongst others, Royal Troon and Prestwick close by.  There was a golf course here in the early twentieth century but it was commandeered for a military camp where the D-Day landings were rehearsed in the Second World War.  The land languished until  a course was partly built intended to be called Southern Gailes.  In 2003 ownership changed hands and golf architect Kyle Phillips was engaged to design the course which is now Dundonald Links. The course has hosted both the Ladies' and Mens' Scottish Opens.

The challenging par 3 6th hole

This is a proper modern links course with the added advantage of a modern clubhouse with views across the course and accommodation in lodges and rooms.  We stayed and played with Lynn and David Lawson on a lovely Ayrshire day with light winds.  The course is well designed with many holes in valleys with dunes screening them from view.  At times it felt like a private golf course. The fairways are wide with lots of strategically placed bunkers.  Shots to the upturned saucer greens have to be accurate to avoid the many swales and runoffs.  

The 11th hole.....
....and its ultimate pot bunker!

The course opens with two good par fours.  The third is a testing par five with a ditch running up most of the right side then crossing the fairway closer to the green.  The sixth is a challenging par 3 with a ditch running across the fairway and up the left side of the green and a large deep bunker protecting a pin position on the left of the green. There is no room for anything less than perfection! Heading back to the clubhouse the ninth has penal bunkers in ladies landing area and a ditch across the front of the green.  The eleventh is a testing par three with a plateau green and the ultimate pot bunker for those going long and left.  The 12th plays towards the sea although unfortunately the view is blocked by the railway line and Western Gailes.  With out of bounds and the railway line down the left and a ditch in front of the two-tier green all viewed from an elevated tee, the thirteenth is another strong par 4. We particularly liked the 16th which is a par 4 which plays into the prevailing wind.  There is out of bounds on the right and two well positioned fairway bunkers to be avoided with the drive.  The lovely par five finishing hole has no fewer than eleven bunkers and yet another ditch across the front of the green.

The 9th green is guarded by a penalty area

Worth playing?  Without doubt.  It is a classic modern links course.

Troon Lochgreen

https://www.golfsouthayrshire.com/play/the-courses/troon-links/ 

White tees par 74, slope 122, 6784 yards
Red tees par 75, slope 133, 6077 yards

Troon Lochgreen is one of the four true links courses in the coastal town of Troon in Ayrshire, the most illustrious being Royal Troon.  Separated from the sea by Royal Troon and Troon Portland it is a municipal course which in the past was used for qualifying for the Open Championship.  In 1962, the last year in which all players, including Jack Nicklaus and Arnold Palmer, had to qualify eighteen of the thirty-six holes were played over Lochgreen. It lies on the same ground as Troon Darley and Fullarton and shares the same clubhouse although oddly Fullarton does not appear in the list of true links courses.

The island of Arran can be seen in the
distance from the 6th

We played Lochgreen with Lynn and David Lawson on a cold, bright breezy day when the gorse was in full bloom.  The condition was poor with a lot of rabbit holes, worn fairways and scruffy bunkers.  It is largely a parkland or heathland course with only the 4th to 8th holes, which lie on a narrow tongue of land beside Troon Portland, being true links in nature.  It starts with three long holes and then crosses a road to the section containing the 4th to 8th holes from which there are distant views of the sea and the islands of Arran and the Ailsa Craig.  Standout holes on this section were the par 4 5th which starts on a high tee and is bordered on the right side by the Ayrshire Coastal railway and the 6th which is a good par 3 well guarded by small dunes and bunkers.  The 11th to 14th holes are characterised by lush grass and mature trees and are definitely parkland in nature.  

The 13th is a parkland hole

The 5th is a true links hole

Worth playing?  There are better courses nearby although Troon Lochgreen is much cheaper to play

La Moye Golf Club, St Brelade, Jersey

www.lamoyegolfclub.co.uk 

White tees (men) par 72, slope 127, 6665 yards 

Red tees (ladies) par 74, slope 132, 5871 yards 

Lying in the south west corner of the island of Jersey is La Moye Golf Club, the second of our three links courses in the Channel Islands. La Moye was founded in 1902 by George Boomer, a local headmaster who was denied access to the then elite Royal Jersey where tradesmen were banned. Boomer proceeded to lay out a golf course on the west coast using tin cans, biscuit boxes and a second-hand hand mower. His passion for the sport is evidenced by the inspiration he gave to his pupils, two of whom were Harry Vardon and Ted Ray, both future Open champions. His own sons were also professional golfers, one winning the French Open and a Ryder Cup team member and the other winning the Belgian, Swiss and Dutch Opens. The course was redesigned in 1934 by James Braid but sadly destroyed along with the club records during the German occupation in the Second World War. Input from well known designers including Henry Cotton and Donald Steel influenced its subsequent reconstruction and development over the years. We were told that a further major redesign by McKenzie and Ebert is in the offing. 

The fabulous view from the 7th tee

We received a very friendly welcome from the professional, members and Mark, the golf operations manager who presented us with 'The Boomer Legacy', a book detailing the first hundred years of La Moye. Set on a hill overlooking the sea, the stylish clubhouse has spectacular views. The course was very well kept but unfortunately it was a very windy day with squally showers and there had been recent greens maintenance. We were given useful advice to keep left for almost all of the holes. The 1st is a par three into the teeth of the prevailing wind with the biggest hazard being marauding gulls stealing any food on display! The 3rd hole is a par 3 with a sloping plateau green. Other holes in the first nine were good but not outstanding. They were set on top of large rocky and sandy outcrops and were more like clifftop than true links golf but which gave panoramic views of the bay and other islands. There were also a lot of trees for a links course. However the greens were links greens with slopes and swales. We liked the par 5 11th which curved uphill and

The 11th from the tee

where the advice to keep left off the tee was very useful. The 12th is an excellent well bunkered par 3 which demands accuracy off the tee. A blind drive at 13th is followed by a downhill approach to a green set amongst trees. The 14th is a difficult long par 3 into the prevailing wind and over a valley of gorse, dunes and waste ground to a steep slope up to the green. There is a long carry at the 15th drive where it is also wise to keep left as there is a cliff on right and the fairway runs from left to right. The 18th returns to the clubhouse which overlooks the green lying in a dell.  

The par 3 12th

                                                       

 Worth playing? Yes but we were not convinced of its true links status.

Royal Jersey Golf Club, Grouville, Jersey

www.royaljersey.com

White tees (men) par 70, 6190 yards, slope 121        
Red tees (ladies) par 71, 5428 yards, slope 121

This is the start of the Channel Islands swing!  We arrived at Royal Jersey Golf Club to one of the friendliest welcomes we have had from Tony the course ranger and the rest of the staff and members and at the end of the round the club presented us with a book, signed by the captain and manager, about the history of the course and club: 'Historical Links' by Mary Phillips.  The club was first established in 1878 on land which remains common ground to this day.  Harry Vardon was born in nearby Grouville and recalls the course being built when he was eight years old: 'The natural state of the land was so perfect that.......possibly no real good golf course was ever so easily made'. A year later the club received its royal warrant from Queen Victoria.  It appears that ladies were admitted a few years later as the first lady captain was appointed in 1894.  As with many links courses the second world war was a major challenge with much damage being done to the golf course by the German forces who occupied the island from 1940 to 1945 which took almost two years to repair. 

The first drive is ideally between the fort on the left
and the two gun emplacements on the right

Lying on the south east coast of Jersey, Royal Jersey is in a beautiful location overlooked by the mediaeval Mont Orgueil castle and with views over the sea to France only 14 miles away.  We played on a bright but windy day, accompanied on the first few holes by long time members Richard and Paul.  The course is tight with the prevailing wind across most holes.  The greens were good but the fairways were in a disappointing condition although it was early in the year.  The first drive is unusual with the line for the drive being between Fort Henry and and two WWII German concrete gun emplacements. The fairway runs from left to right so any shot drifting right is liable to land on the beach which is a no play zone.  The first is a par 5 followed by two par 3s and a par 5, all of which run along the beach.   

The par 3 fourth is overlooked by Mont Orgueil castle

The fifth turns back towards the clubhouse and has a hidden bunker which catches an approach shot to the right.  The eighth is a lovely par 3 although there were a few too many trees for a links course.  We were told that recent improvements had included removal of a large number of trees.

The statue of Harry Vardon

The second nine lies to the inland side of the first nine.  We particularly liked the 10th which is a par 4 from a tee overlooking the beach and heading inland to a challenging approach into the the prevailing wind to an elevated green. The twelfth hole has a typical rolling fairway and a blind shot to a green over a hill. Unusually the 15th and 16th are consecutive par 3s which are near the entrance road and a statue of Harry Vardon.  A  carry over gorse for the drive on the 17th takes the player back up to Fort Henry and a green cut into the hill.  The finishing hole is uphill to a green with panoramic views over the sea.

The eighteenth green

The approach to the 11th green

Worth playing?  Yes if you are going to the Channel Islands

Littlehampton Golf Club, Kent, England

www.littlehamptongolf.co.uk

White tees par 70, slope 123, 6207 yards                                    
Red tees par 73, slope 126, 5615 yards

We played Littlehampton on a sunny but breezy day in late February having driven down from Royal Cinque Ports past the white cliffs of Dover.  Littlehampton lies on the south coast of England overlooking the English Channel.  Incorporated in 1889 it was originally a nine hole course in the sand dunes but in 1893 more land was purchased to add a further nine holes. As with many courses in this area it was ravaged during World War 2 but after the removal of over 400 concrete blocks and a military road the course was restored.

The first hole

This is an unassuming but very friendly club.  We met some very helpful members at the start who insisted that we join them in the clubhouse after the round for a Littlehampton 'special' - brandy and lovage. 

The second hole is a typical links hole

Improvements to the course are underway to build more sand dunes on both sides of the first hole to tie in with the original sand dunes running along the coast.  The prettiest section is along the dunes with occasional glimpses of the magnificent sandy beach.  Standout holes include the second, sixth and seventh, which are typical links holes and easy on the eye.  The sixth is a long par 3 with bunkers awaiting the unwary and a sloping green. The seventh is a gentle dog leg to the right with views of the sea from the tee.  The second nine is less interesting with a few rather wet holes but a nice finishing hole by the clubhouse

The long par 3 6th

Glimpses of the sea on the first nine

Worth playing?  Yes for the relaxing course and friendly welcome.

Royal Cinque Ports Golf Club, Deal, England

www.royalcinqueports.com

White tees 73.9, slope 129, 7010 yards
Red tees 73.3, slope 124, 5660 yards

Initially Cinque Ports golf club, this course lies on the same stretch of coast as Royal St George's and Princes' golf clubs.   The cinque ports are a mediaeval confederation of five English Channel ports to provide ships and men for the king's service.  The title probably dates from the time of Edward the Confessor in the 11th century for defence of the coast and cross channel passage.  In return the inhabitants were give a number of privileges including exemption from tax.  Cinque Ports golf club was opened in 1892 as a nine hole course, much of which would still be recognisable today.  It was designed by the first professional, Henry Hunter,  who was also responsible for its conversion to an eighteen hole course in 1895.  The course received royal patronage just before the coronation of George V but the title of royal was not formally granted until 1949.  Royal Cinque Ports has hosted the Open Championship on two occasions, in 1908 and 1920.

Looking across the first hole to the clubhouse

 This is a lovely proper links course with a friendly         welcome.  We played with our son William and   encountered challenging conditions with  windy weather   and  some heavy wintry showers.  Despite the winter   weather the course was in excellent condition with fast   running crumpled fairways and greens in superb   condition. Its difficulty is increased by the prevailing   wind which blows across the line of play of the course   rather like the Old Course in St Andrews.

Crumpled fairways on the third hole

The first hole is a gentle par 4 heading south with a burn guarding the green.  The course then turns to the north and the next eight holes run along the coast overlooking the English Channel with occasional glimpses of the sea.  We particularly liked the third hole, a par 5 with the second shot through a narrow gap and a green in a hollow.  This was followed by a par 3 with a sloping green and views of Ramsgate in the distance .   Other memorable holes include the 6th with a very undulating fairway and a plateau green and the tenth which was a dogleg from right to left with a large bunker to discourage the player from cutting the corner and steep runoffs round the green.  The 14th hole also had deep swales around the green at the front left and back with a pot bunker guarding the right side making this long par 3 particularly tricky.  The finishing hole is reminiscent of the first, being a gentle par 4 with a burn across the fairway.

The dogleg 10th protected by
 a well positioned bunker

Ramsgate can be seen in the
distance beyond the par 3 4th 

                            

Worth playing?  Definitely.  A proper true links course.

Royal St George's Golf Club, Sandwich, Kent, England

www.royalstgeorges.com

Medal tees par 70, SSS 72, 6630 yards
Pinto (forward) tees ladies par 74, SSS 75, 5801 yards

Our first true links course since the Coronavirus lockdown!  Founded in 1887 by Dr William Purves, Royal St George's was intended to be a rival to St Andrews and held the first Open Championship outside Scotland in 1894 and in some ways time seems to have stood still since then at the club.  It is held in high regard in golfing circles with the battle for the Claret Jug having been held here on fourteen occasions with the 15th due to be held in 2021.  

We played the course on a windy day with the occasional shower of rain.  The course was very quiet, presumably because there are no overseas visitors.  This is a tough course with long carries even from the standard tees and especially for ladies from the forward tees and has many blind or partially blind

The bunkerless 3rd hole

shots.  We were told that the club only has four lady members and this is obvious in the layout of the course - the line to the fairway from one forward tee is blocked by a bench!  The male oriented nature of the course is highlighted in the stroke saver where the name of the 6th hole, the Maiden, is attributed to the shape of the two dunes behind the green.  Perhaps this should be updated.

The course starts with two fairly gentle par 4s, although the carry from the first tee is quite long.  The third is a par 3 which s reputedly one of the most difficult par 3s on the Open rota despite the absence of bunkers.  The green is typical of most with many slopes and runoff areas.  At the fourth there is a much photographed large bunker which looms in front of the golfer from all but the forward tees.  A successful drive leads to a fairway with big slopes and a green which is very tricky with slopes and ridges punishing the slightly errant shot.  A climb up to the fifth tee is rewarded by a lovely view across Sandwich and Pegwell Bay to the white cliffs at Ramsgate.  The fifth and the eighth fairways both have rough in the middle which are a challenge to carry with a strong wind against.

The second nine is considered tougher, probably because the many of the holes face the prevailing

The par 3 6th - 'The Maiden'

wind.  There are five par 5s for ladies in this nine.  The 11th is an attractive and inviting par 3 although bunkers lie on either side to gather any shot slightly off line.  A slight dogleg from left to right, the 12th is the shortest par 4 on the course and has a green heavily guarded by bunkers in front.  With out of bounds along the right the par 5 14th is famous for Dustin Johnson's inexplicable slice out of bounds in the final round of the 2011 Open which cleared the way for Darren Clarke's victory.  Seven bunkers surround the par 3 16th where Thomas Bjorn took three strokes to get out of one of them thereby losing the 2003 Open to Ben Curtis.  The course finishes with two long classic links holes into the prevailing wind.

The 11th hole has views across the bay to Ramsgate

Befitting an Open venue this is a difficult links course  but it lacks the 'wow' factor of the Ailsa at Turnberry and the cleverness of Royal Birkdale.

Worth playing?  Yes as an Open venue but bring your 'A game' and plenty of golf balls.

Humewood Golf Course, Port Elizabeth, South Africa

humewoodgolf.co.za

White tees par 72, S.A.G.A. 71, 6096 metres
Red tees par 74, W.G.S.A. 73, 5350 metres

Lying to the south east of the city of Port Elizabeth on Algoa Bay in the Indian Ocean, Humewood Golf Course is the only true links course in Africa.  In 1929 golf was becoming popular in the area, probably due to an increasing European influence, and the Port Elizabeth Golf Club commissioned Colonel Stafford Vere Hotchkin who remodelled Woodhall Spa golf course in Lincolnshire, to design a new course which opened two years later in 1930 as Humewood Golf Course.

The view from the clubhouse over the 18th green to the

1st fairway and the Indian Ocean

We played Humewood on a perfect day with light winds.  The members, from whom we had a very friendly welcome, told us that there are three courses - one in the east wind, one in the west wind and one like today!  The course is a true links topographically although the turf was rather lush in places and the fairways although typically undulating, were not as hard and fast running as we would expect.  The course starts with two straightforward par 4s with raised greens which we came to realise are a feature of the course, punishing any slightly short approach shots.  The four par 3s are all excellent tests of golf, not least of which is the third which is 190m from the white tees and may need a driver in strong winds.  The par 3 sixth was described by Retief Goosen as 'the shortest par 4 in the world' and reputedly had an average score of 5.2 in a tournament when the wind was blowing. The 12th requires an accurate tee shot to a long narrow green guarded by bunkers.  The final par 3 is the 14th

The approach to the 13th green

which is played to a plateau green sloping from back to front and guarded by a bunker short left and a hidden bunker on the right.  The par 4s are no less challenging.  Four are particularly long - 4,8,10 and 13.  The 13th is particularly memorable with a typically crumpled fairway leading to an elevated and sloping green.  The course finishes with the par 4 18th heading back to the clubhouse over a very sloping fairway and a green well guarded by bunkers.  An added attraction of the course is the prolific wildlife - we saw ibis, mongoose, cape grysbok and blacksmith plovers to name but a few.

The par 3 14th hole.  There is a hidden bunker on the right

Worth playing?  Yes - it's the only true links in Africa!