North Berwick West Links, Scotland

www.northberwickgolfclub.com

SSS White tees
           Red tees

There are views of the Bass Rock and the islands of the Forth Estuary

This course is so steeped in golf history that it is difficult to choose what to include.  It lies on ground between the town of North Berwick and the Firth of Forth on Scotland's East Lothian 'golf coast'.  The North Berwick Golf Club was formed in 1832 making it one of the oldest in the world.  Golf is reputed to have been played on the same terrain since at least the start of the seventeenth century or possibly even earlier.  Originally a six hole course over which the members played three rounds in their medals, it was gradually extended to its current length in 1895 and after a redesign supervised by Ben Sayers in 1932 became the present day course.  It has long attracted the rich and famous and in 1903 it is recorded that the Prime Minister, the Speaker of the House of Commons, four Members of Parliament, two Bishops of the Church of England, three eminent Professors, a Field Marshal, two generals and a famous Tibetan explorer were all on the course at the same time.  The links boasts the oldest open junior golf competition in the world, the Elcho Medal.  The current Children's course started life as the Ladies' course and is the oldest nine hole ladies' course in Scotland. 

North Berwick West Links has been described as being from a 'primitive age' and is certainly a traditional links course which appears to have evolved from the raised beach with a straight out, straight back layout.  The first nine head out into the prevailing wind which assists the golfer as he turns back at the tenth tee.  We were lucky to play the course as guests of Caroline and Mike Johnstone on a calm, bright day which afforded lovely views of the islands in the Forth estuary including the famous Bass Rock which is a Site of Special Scientific Interest because of its gannet colony. 

The 2nd tee

There are many memorable holes on this course requiring a full repertoire of shots from a drive over the beach at the 2nd, reminiscent of the 1st at Machrihanish, to negotiating the approach to the green at the 18th with its deep swale reminiscent of the 18th at the Old Course.  The most famous is the par three 15th hole 'Redan' named so after being likened by a serving officer to a formidable fortress in the Crimean War .  It requires a shot which carries all the way to the diagonally left to right sloping green and finishes below the hole or a three putt is almost certain.  An ability to negotiate the several stone walls which cross the course is essential - at the 13th ('Pit') the wall presents a particular challenge as it crosses diagonally in front of the green.  North Berwick West Links is a true links experience and steeped in history.



The 13th aptly named 'Pit' with one of the many stone walls which have to be negotiated

Worth a visit? It is a must play.

Castle Stuart, Inverness, Scotland

www.castlestuartgolf.com


Par all tees 72






Opened in 2009 by the American developer who built Kingsbarns in Fife, Castle Stuart golf links lies along the southern shore of the Moray Firth near Inverness.  It was designed by its developer, Mark Parsinen and US golf architect Gil Hanse and is a modern links course with some original links golf features such as a combination of revetted and natural bunkers and rumpling of fairways and approaches to greens.  Modern features include 'infinity' greens which lead the eye to distracting views of the Moray Firth and beyond.  The course is designed with holes screened by mounds so that it feels like a private golf course.

The par 3 4th with Castle Stuart in the background

The first nine holes lie on the west side of the art deco style clubhouse and the second nine to the east.  On each nine the first three holes hug the coastline and the rest are on a higher level with commanding 360 degree views.  One of the best holes is the 3rd which is a short par 4 finishing on a small promontory.  Placement of the drive rather than length is paramount or your ball will end up in a deep swale from which a par is unlikely.  The 4th is a pretty par 3 framed by the eponymous Castle Stuart, a 16th century tower house with links to Mary, Queen of Scots and the Earls of Moray. The course finishes with a downhill sweeping par 5 which for ladies is reachable in two with a favourable wind.  The fairways are generous but the greens are difficult or scary depending on the pin positions - a pin at the back of an infinity green with a following wind is particularly daunting.

This is a really good test of golf combined with a warm welcome from the staff.  On a windy autumn day don't miss the soup at the halfway house!

An infinity green at the 13th with Kessock Bridge at Inverness in the distance

Brora, Scotland

www.broragolf.co.uk

SSS White tees 70
        Red tees    71

The first green looking back to the clubhouse

Founded in 1891 with a nine hole layout attributed to Old Tom Morris, Brora became an 18 hole course at the turn of the century and was then redesigned by James Braid in 1923.  It is essentially unchanged since then and remains an example of pure links golf.  The course lies on the links land between the village of Brora and Kintradwell Bay with its sweep of beautiful golden sand.  It is a classic out-and back layout with the first nine following the shore in a north-easterly direction and the second nine heading back for the clubhouse in a south-westerly direction.  We played the course in a strong wind off the sea which blows across most holes making it a stern test of golf!

The ninth - 'Sea Hole'

The challenging par 3 eighteenth

The fairways are generous and the rough manageable thanks to the sheep and cattle which still graze on the course as a result of retained ancient grazing rights.  A unique local rule states that animal droppings are treated as casual water. I first played Brora as a child and well remember the electric fences around the greens which remain today.  The greens are excellent but small and the bunkers are perfect examples of links construction.  Some holes are particularly memorable with a personal favourite being the 9th, Sea Hole, where in summer the arctic terns which are the emblem of the club will dive bomb the unwary golfer who ventures too close to their nests.  The second nine is particularly testing with the 18th lying in wait for any player congratulating herself prematurely.  It is a par three where any shortish shot will roll down from the well bunkered green into a deep swale where an up and down is well nigh impossible. 




Worth a visit?  Not to be missed - a great example of links golf.

Tain, Scotland

www.tain-golfclub.co.uk

SSS White tees 72
        Red tees    73

Tain golf club was founded in 1890 but like its near neighbour, Dornoch, golf is thought to have been played here for several hundred years.  It was initially a 15 hole course designed by Old Tom Morris but in 1894 became 18 holes.  It has been altered since so that the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 9th, 10th 14th and 15th still retain elements of his original design.

The 3rd green looking back to the town of Tain

The course lies on the outskirts of the town of Tain on the south side of the Dornoch Firth.  Only a few holes have sea views and much of the course is heathland rather than links.  Links elements are obvious in the holes nearer the sea and the bunkers are all deep and revetted.  Memorable holes are the 11th whose name, the Alps, is self explanatory.  It is a par 4 for men and 5 for ladies with a hidden green protected by two large sentry dunes.  The 12th runs along the Firth with a view of Glenmorangie distillery, after which it is named, in the distance.  The 17th is a long par 3 for men and for ladies is a risk and reward par 4 with a driveable green over the Aldie burn. 

This is a good holiday course where we found a very warm welcome from both the professional and the clubhouse staff alike.

Worth playing?  Yes - a fun course with a warm welcome.

The 11th green looks over the Dornoch Firth

Royal Dornoch Championship course

www.royaldornoch.com

SSS White tees 73
         Red tees   76

Golf was first played on the linksland at Dornoch in 1616, making it the third oldest golf course in the world.  The club was formed in 1877 when there were nine holes.  In 1886 Old Tom Morris was invited to lay out a fully planned course and by 1889 there were eighteen holes.  The advent of the rubber cored ball at the turn of the century meant that the course was remodelled and lengthened.  During the Second World War part of the course was used as an aerodrome and in the late 1940s more remodelling was done when the Struie course was formed and new holes (6-11) were added to the Championship course.



Overlooking the second nine and Dornoch Bay

Its history is almost palpable when playing at Royal Dornoch and it is easy to imagine the original golfers on the course.  It is a traditional out-and-back layout of a links course with the deep bunkers and the wind being its fierce defences.  It is the unwary golfer who congratulates himself on a good score on the first eight holes played with the wind as he will then turn into the wind when low scores are much more difficult.  The fairways are generous but the greens are the upturned saucers which clearly inspired the famous golf architect Donald Ross who was born in Dornoch and was the club's first professional.  Holding the greens requires a well judged shot or a par will be sacrificed!  There are sea views at almost every hole and the course follows the white sands of Dornoch Bay. 

Tom Watson is an honorary member of the club and has described a round at Royal Dornoch as the most fun he has ever had on a golf course.   This is a wonderful links course which improves the more it is played. 

The tenth is a short hole with a green typically well guarded by deep bunkers

Worth playing?  Definitely for its history, the sense of playing a traditional links course and the challenge it presents.

Gullane No 3, Scotland

www.gullanegolfclub.com

SSS White tees 66
           Red tees 69

Gullane No 3 is the third of the courses in the town of Gullane on the east coast of Scotland.  It was designed by Willie Park Jnr and opened in 1910.  It is the shortest of the three measuring 5259 yards for men and 4920 yards for ladies but it does not suffer in quality.  We played the course with Fiona and Mike Ford on a clear crisp winter's day with a moderate breeze. 

Look behind you! The view backwards from the 6th tee
to the Pentland Hills and Edinburgh

No 3 may be the shortest of the courses but it still packs a punch!  The course heads into the prevailing wind for the first five holes, climbing over the side of Gullane hill just to the west of Gullane No 2.  It then has a loop from the 7th to the 12th before turning back towards the clubhouse with the wind.  Pot bunkers abound and there are some tricky approaches to the greens.  Notable holes are the 7th with magnificent views across Aberlady Bay to Edinburgh from the tee, the par 3 11th with its plateau green guarded by bunkers and the par 5 14th sweeping up Gullane Hill.  The weakest hole is the 15th which is so precipitous that it is a 160 yard wedge shot. The greens were magnificent - fast running and true even in winter. This course is a scaled down version of its bigger brothers Gullane No 1 and 2 and just as much of a pleasure to play.

The uphill par 3 11th.  Don't be short!

Worth a visit? Yes - an excellent links experience although there are longer more challenging courses in the area.

Bude and North Cornwall

www.budegolf.co.uk

SSS White tees 70
          Red tees  72

The 7th green with Bude in the background

Bude and North Cornwall golf club was founded as North Cornwall golf club in 1891 when membership was exclusive to the officer class and local gentry.  Locals excluded from membership eventually formed the Bude Town golf club and were allowed to play on the course at restricted times in return for working on the course.  They were denied entry to the clubhouse.  After the Second World War the clubs merged to ease financial difficulties and I
n 1949 the Bude and North Cornwall golf club was formed.



The 13th is a testing par 3

The course today sits within the seaside town of Bude on the North Cornwall coast.  The opening five holes are over a road from the clubhouse and are the only part of the course near the sea.  This is a nondescript section which is poorly planned - approaching the par 3 4th tee from the 3rd green required a walk down most of the 4th.  The rest of the holes are inland and include a number of blind shots.  The 7th hole is unique - the presence of a fairway is a test of faith from the tee!  The 15th and 17th holes are testing holes with water in front of the green.  Two well played shots will reach the green on the 17th which is a par 5 for ladies.  A weakness is the designation of the practice ground, which lies in the middle of the course, as out of bounds.  This is a links course apart from the 9th and 10th which are more parkland in nature and surrounded by trees.



Worth playing?  If you are in Bude with time to spare. This is a holiday course but not the best in the area.

Trevose

http://www.trevose-gc.co.uk


SSS White tees 71
           Red tees 75



Trevose golf club lies on the Atlantic coastline of North Cornwall, just south of Padstow.  It has stunning views over Constantine Bay and Booby's Bay to Trevose Head, part of the Cornwall Area of Outstanding Beauty.  Any spare time before teeing off is well rewarded by a walk on Trevose Head with its many seabirds and impressive sinkhole.

the 4th green overlooking Trevose Head

The Championship course at Trevose was designed by Harry Colt and opened in 1925.  The first tee is a vantage point to view the layout of the course and an inviting drive over a road to the rumpled fairways.  We played in calm, sunny conditions but it is obvious that this would be a tricky course in the wind with some challenging holes. The par 5 4th is a strong hole with a dogleg to the left and views of the ocean on the approach to the green.  The par 3 3rd and 11th holes are memorable with their well bunkered sloping greens although the halfway house at the 11th tee provides some respite!  Some of the par 4s however are rather similar to each other and less memorable.  The 18th is an excellent finishing hole with a well bunkered green set into the hillside by the clubhouse.  Take time to visit the lovely clubhouse after your round and relax in the inviting armchairs with a view over the course to the ocean.

The sun setting over the first hole

Worth playing?  Yes.  A true links course in a lovely setting

St Enedoc (Church)

www.st-enedoc.co.uk

SSS White tees 71
           Red tees 75

The Church course at St Enedoc is ranked 99th in the top 100 golf courses in the world by Golf Digest and thoroughly deserves that ranking, if not higher.  It lies beside the Camel estuary opposite Padstow on the North Cornwall coast.  Designed by James Braid, it was built in 1907 and despite a few changes since it is said to play today essentially as laid out by Braid.  The club was founded earlier in 1890 when the annual subscription was five shillings (20p).  Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman was a member of the club and his poem 'Seaside Golf', which heads this blog, was written about the 13th hole.  Betjeman is buried in the St Enedoc churchyard around which the 10th, 11th,12th and 13th holes wind.  For about 200 years the church was buried in the sand dunes and to maintain its consecration the vicar had to be lowered into it through the roof to hold a service once each year.

The biggest bunker in Europe?

View to Padstow from the 17th tee.
The 16th green is in the middle distance.

The course itself is a delight.    The fairways were fast running and the greens true - it is all one could ask of a true links course.  Every hole is memorable for its quality and the panoramic views.  Each hole requires careful thought about shot placement.  This is particularly true of the 4th which requires accurate shot placement from the tee between out of bounds on the right and deep trouble on the left.  Miss the fairway and a par is unlikely.   The 6th hole has what is reputed to be the largest bunker in Europe over which a blind shot to the green is played.  The 16th is a challenging par 5 which follows the Camel estuary with views across to Padstow.  The 18th is an excellent finishing hole to a plateau green in front of the lovely clubhouse.  All in all a great test of golf!

St Enedoc church from the 14th tee.
 The 11th green can be seen in the distance
 with the Camel estuary behind 

Worth playing?  Without a doubt.

Newquay

www.newquaygolfclub.co.uk

SSS   Blue tees 70
           Red tees 73

All the holes overlook Fistral Beach

Newquay is set above the magnificent Fistral Beach which is renowned for its surfing and there are sea views from every hole.  It was designed by Harry Colt in 1890.  The clubhouse has a unique castellated tower and was built in 1835 as a home for the Molesworth family, Cornish landowners and baronets.

The unusual castellated tower of the clubhouse

The course is a proper links course with interesting and challenging holes and difficult greenside bunkers.  A public path crosses the course protected by fencing which comes into play at several holes. The greens were in a disappointing condition and the course in general looks a little neglected.  It is surrounded on three sides by the town of Newquay which has seen better days.

Worth playing?  There are better courses nearby in Cornwall.

Perranporth

SSS white tees 71
          red tees  72

www.perranporthgolfclub.co.uk

Situated high on the sand dunes to the north-west of the town of Perranporth, Perranporth golf course was designed by James Braid in 1927 and it is clear that very little structural work was done in building the course.  It follows the natural contours of the dunes and consequently there are a lot of blind shots so local knowledge is very helpful.  The greens are excellent but the fairways were worn after a dry summer.  The views over Perran Bay and the beach are spectacular but inland from the course the caravan park spoils the ambience. We played it on a sunny day with light breezes and found it extremely challenging and tiring - it must be almost impossible when the wind blows.  The holes are named in the Cornish language with helpful English translations such as Whym Wham (This way and that), Cowan Nuggies (Gremlins) and Uthek (Formidable).  It will be memorable for us as we watched the European team win the Ryder Cup in the clubhouse after our round.

Worth playing?  Perhaps this course improves with familiarity but the number of blind shots precludes it from greatness.  It is certainly not for the faint-hearted!

The view to the town of Perranporth

West Cornwall

www.westcornwallgolfclub.co.uk

SSS white tees 69
SSS red tees     73

The start of the Cornish swing!  We have come down here with Rosie and Martin Dennis to play the six true links courses in Cornwall.  The oldest club in Cornwall, West Cornwall is in Lelant near St Ives.  We played it on a sunny day with clear blue skies and a light breeze.  Set around the magnificent sweep of Porthkidney sands at the mouth of the Hayle estuary there are stunning views to St Ives in the west and Godrevy lighthouse to the north east.  A single gauge railway line runs along the sea side of the course but does not obstruct the views.

The course is quirky and fun.  The first nine is tight with shared fairways and a number of crossing holes so make sure your golf insurance is paid up!  The second nine goes up the hill around the bay - the panoramic views may well distract you from your game.  This is a real links course with hard, fast running fairways and true but small greens. A lovely, fun holiday course with a warm and friendly welcome.


The view to St Ives

Worth playing?  Definitely for the fun course, views and friendly welcome.

The 4th green

Muirfield

www.muirfield.org.uk

SSS 73

Golf was first played over Muirfield in 1891 on 16 holes designed by old Tom Morris and extended to 18 holes for the Open in 1892.  Today's layout was the result of extending the total area and recommendations from Harry Colt in 1923.  Muirfield departs from classic links courses with two loops of nine holes each, one anticlockwise and one clockwise.  This adds to the challenge of the course as the wind direction from the tee differs at each hole.



The 18th green with the clubhouse behind

Muirfield is world renowned and has held 16 Open Championships, with the list of winners including some of the greatest players in the game.  Jack Nicklaus described it as the best golf course in Britain and named his own course in Ohio Muirfield Village.  It is the home of the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers which claims to be the oldest verifiable golf club in the world with continuous records extending from 1744.  It is an all male club which caused some controversy when the Open was staged there in 2013.


The par 3 13th requires an accurate shot.
Danger lurks for any slight deviation

We were guests of our friends David and Kath Anderson on a perfect summer's day with a light breeze and played foursomes, which is a traditional format for visitors.  The course was in magnificent condition and presents a real challenge to the amateur golfer.  The fairways are narrow, the rough is tough and the bunkers are deep and strategically placed.  The golfer who can avoid trouble will score well but that is easier said than done - even the best in the world have tried and failed.




Worth playing?  Unquestionably - it is one of the best courses in the world.

Cruit Island, Donegal, Eire

 www.cruitislandgolfclub.com

SSS white and red tees par 68



View from the 1st tee, Cruit Island Golf Club

This nine hole course must be in the running for the most spectacular setting for a links course.  Situated at the tip of Cruit (pronounced 'crootch' by the locals) Island, it is accessed by a single track road which goes over a bridge spanning a sea
inlet.  The course is surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic
Ocean, sandy coves, granite islands and rocky outcrops. This is not a championship course but a traditional links course which follows the terrain.  The greens are good but it is difficult to concentrate on golf when the scenery is so beautiful.  The par 3 sixth hole is the most dramatic we have played with a long carry over a sea inlet with waves crashing through a natural granite arch.  Keep on the straight and narrow - any shot drifting to the right is gone!

The 6th hole - a daunting carry to the green

You will find a traditional warm Irish welcome here in a clubhouse with a view over the ninth green and Ouaigh Island.

Worth a visit?  Most definitely for the setting although it is remote.

Buddon Links, Carnoustie

SSS White tees 69
         Red tees    69

The 18th hole overlooking Carnoustie Bay. 
The Carnoustie Golf Hotel is the white building in the background

Buddon Links is one of the three links courses at Carnoustie including the Championship course which is an Open Championship venue.  Buddon lies between the Championship course and the sea but the sea can only be seen from the 18th where there is a magnificent view across Carnoustie Bay to the town.  Opened in 1979 after the purchase of land from the Ministry of Defence each hole is named after a famous historical battle - facing a hole called Waterloo at a strategic point in your round could be tricky!  The course was designed by Peter Alliss and Dave Thomas with two new and one reconstructed holes being added this year.

This is an unpretentious but very enjoyable course.  We played it in sunny but quite windy conditions which made it challenging but not impossibly difficult.  The greens were in excellent condition and there is a modern golf centre to relax in after your round.  Most of the course is true links but the middle third was more heathland with pine trees and water features.



Worth a visit? Yes - a good course and good value for money.

Silloth on Solway, England

http://www.sillothgolfclub.co.uk 
 

White tees par 72
Red tees par 75

Like many links courses Silloth on Solway owes its existence to the railway - it was founded by the North British Railway Company in 1892.  It was laid out by David Grant, a playing and teaching professional at North Berwick, where Lord Tweedale, the chairman of the Company, had been captain.     Silloth's most famous member was Cecilia (Cecil) Leitch who won 12 titles, including 4 British Ladies Amateur Championships in the early part of the 20th century.  A portrait of her dominates the clubhouse lounge to this day.

The 1st green with the clubhouse in the background

Views over the Solway Firth to the hills of Dumfriesshire

We played Silloth on a cold and windy day.  Silloth is an old Victorian seaside town which is a long drive from the M6. It is an old fashioned links course which follows the Solway coast and has magnificent views over the water to Dumfriesshire in Scotland.  The first nine is shorter (par 35) and goes predominantly in a westerly direction into the prevailing wind.  Relief is obtained when one turns back to the clubhouse in the longer back nine ( par 37 for men and 40 for ladies including 6 par 5s and only one par 4)!  The course was very wet with a swan swimming in the middle of the 8th fairway.  Probably as a result the greens were slower than we would expect of links greens.  We were disappointed to be charged full summer rates despite preferred lies being allowed and a mat on the tee at the 9th.

Worth a visit?  In drier conditions if you have a day to spare.